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The Border with Haiti

I can feel the temperature fall noticeable and it seems like I am riding up into the clouds. The trail improves with more crushed stone and less large boulders and gullies. I am still climbing, just not as steep.

It isn’t long before I find myself riding through lush tropical rainforest. Long strings of moss are hanging from the trees. There are palm trees and broad leaf plants all over and the fog continues to thicken.

At times, it is hard to see through the fog.

I ride a long stretch then run across another military outpost building. Again, only one person is stationed here. This person is wearing full military gear complete with army boots and M-16 rifle in his lap. He is a pleasure to talk with. He also gives me quite a reaction when I tell him about my ride.

“?solo? “ir la moto!” (you are alone! you are traveling on a motorcycle!)

He gives me a thumbs up.

The trees are covered in Spanish moss giving the trail an eerie look, I like that.

If I would invent a scene on a ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ ride at Disney, a scene where I ride a motorcycle through, this is what it would be. I am riding through rainforest jungle, a true tropical island paradise. I spot a babbling spring shooting up next to the trail. I see this as a good spot to check the radiators coolant level, and it is.

I am happy, I am not boiling off anymore radiator fluid and the road seems to be getting better, meaning I think the motorcycle is going to survive and I am going to make it back to civilization, eventually. At times, It is easy to think about just wanting to get the hell out of here in one piece when I see the first paved road. I think this is a common emotion with any adventure or struggle. I get over it. I am in my element.

I reach the other side of the mountain and I am going down fast. I coast without the engine to save fuel. The rainforest is gone, I am back in light and dry scrub brush and vistas of far away mountains, way cool.

While riding down it is easy to see Lago Enriquillo off into the distance, the largest lake in the Caribbean. Lake Enriquillo is 25-40 meters below sea level. I started this ride today at sea level, I passed the second highest peak on the island and now I am descending to below sea level. How cool is that.

I ride steep down hill to another official building with a roadblock across the trail. They are using a downed tree for the roadblock. I have a tall dirt bike. I hop over the tree in the middle of the road without much trouble. The noise I made jumping the tree attracted the two people working the building. It looked like a park forestry building and was. Again, both guys ‘wow out‘ when I tell them where I just rode from, solo! They tell me I needed to get a permit somewhere. The way I came in is not the normal way into the park. They make it seem like it is no big deal that I am riding without a permit.

I make it to the bottom, find water, check the radiator fluid then proceed to circle the lake. There are over 6 villages on the shores of this lake, I know there are hotels. My first choice is to get to Descubierta, a village on the Haitian border closest to where my trail starts tomorrow.

I pull into Descubierta with only a half an hour of daylight to spare. I check into the only hotel in town that has adequate motorcycle security. At least it is cheap, $7.50 a night. I try to go shopping for adventure supplies for tomorrow’s ride. Finding water is no problem but I cannot find any good road food, and I am not fussy, I can pack and eat almost anything. The stores look like no supply truck has been here in months. I am happy to come away with enough food for an evening meal. It is weird. I saw many people cooking along the road when I first pulled into town. An hour later, everything is shutdown.

In the hotel, I take deep breaths thinking about the ride I just did. I look in the mirror with a big ‘Woow!’ face. I have ridden dirt bikes on conditions similar to this but only for short bursts. This type of extreme off-road riding for 10 hours straight is new to me. I feel like I just completed a marathon. I feel like I just experienced something culturally significant. I will never feel the same about the Dominican Republic or Haiti again. I like that feeling…